About wild mountains and a bed above the pigsty

 

After an improvised breakfast of yoghurt, banana and some dry bread, the next stage is waiting for me. The first part is heavy because my left shoulder hurts again. That is why the contents of my backpack must be rearranged at the first stop. After that it goes a little better. The first part of the route through rather flat country is not very spectacular. It becomes more interesting after passing the village of Villafranca Montes the Oca. Here the wild slopes of the Montes de Oca are beginning, a stretch strongly feared by medieval pilgrims because of the nearly impassable territory, the harsh climate and the many robbers. Today the robbers have disappeared, but it has remained a lonesome area, covered with dense forests. 

 

Montes de Oca

 

The coffee I had in Espinosa del Camino has given me a lot of energy and in a firm speed (unusual for me) I climb the first slopes. Generally I am not a very good climber. The reason for this is the lack of opportunities for training in Holland. When climbing with a group I am generally the last one to arrive at the top. But on the flat stretches and during the descent I always rejoin the others without too many efforts. But today I am going like a rocket though groves of firs and oaks. It is a pity that the peace and quiet of the woods is slightly disturbed by the (fortunately not too heavy) traffic on the national road, running parallel to the Camino from time to time. Sometimes the landscape makes me think of the wildest parts of the Belgian Ardennes. Such a landscape I did not pass before during my pilgrimage. Because of my speed I pass a considerable number of pilgrims and before I realise it I am in San Juan de Ortega, a settlement around a monastery, in the middle of nowhere.

 

San Juan de Ortega at last!

 

I have already walked 25 kilometres, but I am not tired at all and do not want to stop for today. The weather is also perfect for walking today. The refugio here, where some people are already waiting, does not really make a good impression me. It seems to me a rather primitive one. Moreover I heard that the legendary welcoming priest of this place, who each evening used to cook garlic soup for the pilgrims, died last year. I wait a little bit before I make a decision to see the church, which is restored at this moment with money of the European Union. The church is well worth visiting, especially the medieval memorial of the saint, who has given his name to this place. San Juan the Ortega was a follower of Santo Domingo de la Calzada and just like him he started the construction of roads, bridges and a refugio in this deserted region.

 

 

San Juan de Ortega, sarcophagus

 

When leaving the church, to my surprise, I meet my companions Dirk and Nuala from the train to Saint Jean Pied the Port again, together with Martin from Holland and Rosemary from New Zealand (not the young little girl of two days ago but an elderly woman). We all decide to continue to the next refuge in the village of Atapuerca. Two other ladies, also from Holland, are joining us. I will never see so many Dutch on the Camino as today!

After passing a plateau with beautiful views the four Dutchmen reach the refugio of Atapuerca, where we hear that it is already full for today. What to do now? To walk further to Burgos is no option and the nearest refugio lies aside of the route in a hamlet where nothing can be bought. At a bar Martin asks if there is somebody in this village who lets rooms to pilgrims. He gets an address from the barkeeper and the four of us are going there. For twelve Euro a person we get lodging in a house with five beds. The fifth bed has already been let to Oliver, a German, who I already met in Belorado. Only when we have already have paid the landlady, do we notice how shabby the house is. Everything is in disorder and it does not seem to have been cleaned for a long time. The blankets could also have been fresher. Twelve Euros appears to be an extortionate price for what is really offered. I have indeed the advantage of a chamber for my own, but it appears to lie above a pigsty, which you can smell very well. The first thing I do is close the window. Fortunately it is not very warm today!

A little bit later Dirk, Rosemary and Nuala, who also cannot find a bed in this village, arrive. We do not hesitate for a moment. We decide at once to rent the living room to them, so that they can lay their mattresses there and can take a decent shower. We agree to share the costs for the house. Nuala has no mattress, but I do not need mine now so she can have it for this night. Martin and Oliver are telling blood-curdling tales about bedbugs and other creepy little animals, but they can not frighten me, so I turn in without fear to have a quit night without snoring neighbours. I think, people who have hosophobia better not walk the Camino. If they are not cured of it very quickly they will leave the Camino very soon or they have to pay a lot of money for lodging.