The church with the hen-house

 

Because it was Sunday yesterday, no food could be bought and the refugio supplies no breakfast. So we must leave with an empty stomach today. After seven kilometres we find the first bar open in Azofra. Today I prefer to walk alone to have the opportunity to think about my experiences of the last few days. Except for a steep climb to the red rock on which Nájera is situated, the route is flatter than the previous days. Although we are still in the Rioja, we find that, after some kilometres, vinyards are disappearing to be replaced by endless corn fields. Already this gives an impression of what to expect on the meseta. On seeing the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada from a hilltop, I find that I still have to walk for a further hour to reach the town.

 

The road to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

 

In the main street of Santo Domingo we soon find the monastery of the Cistercian nuns, who have a guest house for pilgrims. Although I have walked rather relaxed today, the two long stretches of the previous days nevertheless have taken their toll and I have a need to go no further. This, in spite of the reputation of the refugio van Grañon, only five kilometres from here, accommodated picturesquely in the tower of the church, where the priest personally looks after the well-being of his guests. I arrive early enough in the monastery to be a welcome guest. The dormitories and garden are spacious and the sanitary facilities reasonable, so that I have room enough to wash my body and launder my clothes. I find that I must take care on the stairs because the steps are very worn. I can’t, however, appreciate the beds, which have the form of a banana and are too soft. Nevertheless, I sleep here very well.

I have to visit a pharmacy for an ointment against muscular pain, because during the last two days my calves have been protesting against the hard labour they have had to perform. I also have some trouble with my left shoulder. Moreover new sun cream has to be bought, because I left mine somewhere on a hilltop after using it there. It may be imagination, but I have got the impression that along the Camino the pharmacy denseness is much larger than in the rest of Spain. They are frequented by a large number of pilgrims, who buy all kinds of plasters, bandages and ointments. Magnesium tablets are especially popular, both among the walkers and the cyclists. Fortunately for me, I have not needed their assistance during these last weeks.

 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the tower of the church with the hen-house

 

The town is not very spectacular but it has some nice streets and squares. The Gothic church with its baroque tower can already be seen from afar and it is worth visiting, as is the museum beside the church. Pilgrims get a discount here. I do not have to show my credential, because my slippers, burned calves and arms and my zippered trousers make me recognisable as a pilgrim at a distance of a hundred meters, therefore I get the discount without asking. The church is especially well known because of the hen house with a live chicken and cock within the church,. This relates to what is perhaps the most famous legend of the whole Camino. According to the legend a German family, a father, a mother and a son went to Santiago. During their stay in Santo Domingo the daughter of the host fell in love with the son. He however lived with his head in the clouds and was not interested in her approaches. When she saw her feelings rejected, her love turned to hatred and she wanted revenge. She hid a precious goblet in the luggage of the boy and accused him of robbery. The boy was condemned and was hung. When the bereaved parents wanted to cast a last glance on their unfortunate son, he spoke to them and said that he was still alive because Santiago supported his feet. The delighted parents ran immediately to the judge who had condemned their son and told him what had happened. The judge, who was eating a roasted cock and a chicken at that moment, did not believe them and said: "your son is exactly as living as the chicken and the cock on my plate".  Immediately the two birds got their feathers again and flew loudly crackling from the table. The judge, persuaded, ordered to detach the boy and instead of him the daughter of the host was hung. Since then there has always been a live cock and chicken in the church. Here also is the tomb of the saint himself, who has given his name to this place. Santo Domingo felt sorry for the pilgrims who had to wrestle themselves through a difficulty area. He founded a monastery and together with the other monks he constructed roads, bridges and accommodation for them. For this he was sanctified after his death and has name was given to the place where he had lived and was buried.  

After the sightseeing I am sitting in the nice monastery garden, reading a book and discussing my experiences with a young New Zealand girl called Rosemary. It is striking how many people outside of Europe are on the Camino. Besides Rosemary I have also already met another New Zealander and several Australians. Moreover, the Canadian province of Quebec (especially) provides a considerable percentage of pilgrims. I have also already spoken to several Brazilians. Today I have a Brazilian as my neighbour. His name is Carlos and comes from Recife in the Northeast. He has not endured the pilgrimage today as well as I, because he walks with difficulty and his feet are covered with plaster. I do not have to look for a restaurant this evening because Marie Madeleine and Odile have invited me and Christian (who stays in the other refugio of the town) to dine with them. They made a delicious meal in the kitchen of the refugio. The Rioja wine tastes very good.